An AIO Leg Roll Tutorial with Pictures
I found the Honeyboy pattern very vague in terms of the leg rolls, and I actually disagree with some parts of it. I had to look up a tutorial on how to do it at first, which was somewhat helpful but still not as explicit as I'd have liked. I muddled my way the first one then decided to do it differently. Here's how I do it:
Line up your pieces as per the instructions and pin together. It should be inner (I've used suedecloth), stabiliser layer with soakers (I've omitted in favour of sewing the soakers direct the inner), hidden PUL, decorative outer (I've used minky). Tabs should be placed between the outer and inner (I've omitted and just extended the pattern).
Mark the elastic points and openings on the PUL with permanent marker (you won't see it on completed nappy):
Sew from top right opening point to the middle right elastic point (under the right hand tab). Raise needle, cut threads. Sew from bottom right elastic point around to the bottom left elastic point, raise needle, cut threads. Sew from middle left elastic point (under left hand tab) to top left opening point. Raise needle, cut threads. There should be openings at the top and on the left and right:
Grab the PUL and outer and pinch in towards the soaker area of the nappy, leaving the stabiliser and inner flat. The idea is to have enough excess PUL and outer to wrap around the elastic and create a casing. Pin the outer/PUL in about 10mm (or 3/8") at the widest point and graduate in. Make both sides even:
Sew from elastic point to elastic point. I guess the seam allowance as I can't see the guide on the foot plate, I just use the foot edge (I'm using a non-stick foot for the PUL):
Apply leg and waist elastic as per pattern:
Clip corners, trim excess from seams. Turn nappy, using a chopstick to gently push corners out so they are square.
Needle down on left side under the tab 5mm (3/16") in from edge. Sew along a short way, then using right hand pull the leg elastic tight. The outer fabric should come forwards over the elastic. You may have to adjust it a little. Make sure that the elastic is away from where the fabric joins - if you sew over the elastic the fabric will not gather over it properly.
Hold the elastic tight while sewing slowly:
Sew about 5mm (3/16") in from the front and back join seam - again, I use the foot as a guide.
Continue top stitching around nappy and repeat on the other side. Follow pattern instructions to close top opening and create back elastic casing.
Your nappy should look something similar to this:
Add velcro and you are done.
Let me know if this is still unclear and I'll try to explain better.